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Thread: Throwout Bearing/Clutch/Rear Main Seal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Hooksett, NH
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    Default Throwout Bearing/Clutch/Rear Main Seal

    Questions for anyone. 2 nights ago my throwout bearing let go. I brought it to my mechanic and he gave me an estimate of about $800 to replace the Bearing and the Clutch.

    He also said that he will not do the rear main seal because of the work involved because it is a split seal so he recommended that if i really want that done, I should bring it to someone that will do the seal and have them do it all at once.

    My questions are

    1. Is $800 reasonable to replace the clutch and throwout bearing? I thought it was only going to cost me about $500 so that seems a bit high to me, but I have never had either done before so i might be off.
    2. What cost should I be expecting if I go somewhere to have the seal done too and any recommendations in S. NH
    3. The seal is leaking and it does drip a bit, how much do i need to worry about replacing it or should I just leave it and keep checking my oil level?

    It is a 2006 Wrangle X
    4.0
    6 Speed manual
    -You should spend 10 minutes in a hammock everyday , unless you are busy, then you should spend an hour.

    2006 Jeep Wrangler X (TJ) - Stock.... except the 31" tires... just stock...
    ...oh no, wait, I bought a new top for it and also put up a sticky led light on the interior roof as a dome light and i put my first sticker on the body.

  2. #2
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    Default

    I can only speak to item 1. I can't say if $800 is 'reasonable' for a quote on changing the throwout bearing & clutch, but my recollection is that I paid more than that to have mine replaced (along with the clutch since everything was apart already and the difference was minimal). Where are you getting your 'I thought it would be only $500' from?

    The "lovely" thing is that I'm already hearing early signs of t/o bearing going again - specifically, a slight difference in drivetrain noise between clutch pedal in and out, and sometimes it's a lot more noticeable than others.
    -- Tundra (yes, really my name, not my truck!) - KC1DQY

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  3. #3

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    800 doesn't seem bad to me... parts are a hundred ish, and the guy has to pull drive shafts, transfer case, cross member, and trans to get to the clutch, re assemble, bleed the clutch, etc.

    If you have an internal slave cylinder, you should have a quality replacement installed while its all out. Its relatively cheap, and they do go out every so often. I had one blow myself in a YJ.

    If you're going to own this jeep a while more, just get the seal done too. It will get worse eventually, and you'll be paying the same repeat labor to pull all those parts again to deal with it then.
    -Ben

    - 1988 k5 Blazer, tons, Locked rear, 40s, hydro, long travel springs

    - Tilton NH

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bhd6th View Post
    800 doesn't seem bad to me... parts are a hundred ish, and the guy has to pull drive shafts, transfer case, cross member, and trans to get to the clutch, re assemble, bleed the clutch, etc.

    If you have an internal slave cylinder, you should have a quality replacement installed while its all out. Its relatively cheap, and they do go out every so often. I had one blow myself in a YJ.

    If you're going to own this jeep a while more, just get the seal done too. It will get worse eventually, and you'll be paying the same repeat labor to pull all those parts again to deal with it then.
    I live in Hooksett, Any recommendations as to where to get it all done?
    -You should spend 10 minutes in a hammock everyday , unless you are busy, then you should spend an hour.

    2006 Jeep Wrangler X (TJ) - Stock.... except the 31" tires... just stock...
    ...oh no, wait, I bought a new top for it and also put up a sticky led light on the interior roof as a dome light and i put my first sticker on the body.

  5. #5
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    Default

    I don't understand why he won't do the seal... GM350s had a split seal for decades. its super easy. drop the oil pan, thread out the old seal, thread in the new seal. easy peasy. so much easier to fix a leaky seal then on newer 1-piece seals where you have to pull the trans (yes, he's doing clutch so its there...)

    but rear main seals aren't uncommon to leak/weep, at least back in the day...

    but $1k for a clutch is reasonable (clutch, pressure plate, resurface flywheel, t/o bearing...) the pan/seal should take 30-60 min to do at most. easiest part of the entire job.
    -TYLER - - Illegitimi non carborundum - -
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhd6th View Post
    800 doesn't seem bad to me... parts are a hundred ish, and the guy has to pull drive shafts, transfer case, cross member, and trans to get to the clutch, re assemble, bleed the clutch, etc.
    I was thinking the same thing, having just done most of that on my YJ to install an SYE.

    If you have an internal slave cylinder, you should have a quality replacement installed while its all out. Its relatively cheap, and they do go out every so often. I had one blow myself in a YJ.
    Highly recommended if it has one, although I believe they stopped using internal slave after '93, at least they did on the YJ. I had one let go in a McD's drive-through, what a PITA.

    If you're going to own this jeep a while more, just get the seal done too. It will get worse eventually, and you'll be paying the same repeat labor to pull all those parts again to deal with it then.
    I don't believe you have to pull the transmission, I replaced mine on a 4.2 (same as the 4.0) by just pulling the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. Although; you realize that Jeeps don't leak, they mark their territory, which is the entire planet not covered by water more than 3' deep...
    Mary Anne: 1988 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36 DGEV, AX15/231/SYE, 4.11 HP-D30 & non c-clip D35 w/Truetrac, 33" KO2's, BDS 2" lift, a bunch of skid plates, Warn 9.5ti

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  7. #7
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    The good thing is, if and when you do decide to do the rear main, you won't have to take the trans out again. The oil pan and last main bearing cap have to come off but it can be done with the tranny installed.

    I think $800 sounds fair, it's a good amount of labor. But these guys are right, the rear main is an easier job than the clutch.

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  8. #8
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    I would not worry about the rear main seal for now. Just put some ATP AT-205 or some other rear main seal stop leak and save your money. Unless it is leaking really bad.

    Clutch parts are cheap, it is the labor including resurfacing, that drives the price up. And don't worry Dean, your slave cylinder is indeed external, so no worries there ;)

    I would go OE, LuK, or maybe even Centerforce, in that order.
    Traction, articulation, and gearing make a good off-road rig. Just a big lift, wide mud tires, and a winch simply do not.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon View Post
    I would not worry about the rear main seal for now. Just put some ATP AT-205 or some other rear main seal stop leak and save your money. Unless it is leaking really bad.

    Clutch parts are cheap, it is the labor including resurfacing, that drives the price up. And don't worry Dean, your slave cylinder is indeed external, so no worries there ;)

    I would go OE, LuK, or maybe even Centerforce, in that order.
    Do jeep rear mains not sling the oil all over the ckutch? I learned that lesson early. 76gmc
    -TYLER - - Illegitimi non carborundum - -
    '14 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 V6 Auto
    -----3" lift with Nisstec MK84 coilovers & OME leafs, HeftyFab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, WARN Winch & HeftyFab bumper, 32" Duratracs
    '15 Nissan Xterra Pro4X
    -----Heftyfab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, 32" Duratracs

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtyler11 View Post
    Do jeep rear mains not sling the oil all over the ckutch? I learned that lesson early. 76gmc
    No, it just drips out of the bell housing to mark their territory. 😉
    Mary Anne: 1988 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36 DGEV, AX15/231/SYE, 4.11 HP-D30 & non c-clip D35 w/Truetrac, 33" KO2's, BDS 2" lift, a bunch of skid plates, Warn 9.5ti

    Boomer: 1997 Ram 2500 4X4, Cummins 12V, 47RE, work in progress...

    The Ancient and Honorable Society of the Leaf Spring
    Tread Lightly!
    KC1EIJ WQZJ411

  11. #11
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    Thank you evryone for your help. Just trying to find a place to do it now.
    -You should spend 10 minutes in a hammock everyday , unless you are busy, then you should spend an hour.

    2006 Jeep Wrangler X (TJ) - Stock.... except the 31" tires... just stock...
    ...oh no, wait, I bought a new top for it and also put up a sticky led light on the interior roof as a dome light and i put my first sticker on the body.

  12. #12

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    Not aware of any shops in hooksett area, although there are many.

    Today I learned something! Did not know you could change a 4.0 rear main without pulling the trans!
    Life is a long learning process.
    -Ben

    - 1988 k5 Blazer, tons, Locked rear, 40s, hydro, long travel springs

    - Tilton NH

  13. #13
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    Not in Hooksett but Tisdell Transmission in Londonderry is reasonable and quite good. I've had him rebuild a transmission and do a couple clutches.

  14. #14
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    If you want some one closer, Dr Steve's Transmission in Manchester was recommended a few times in another group, but I don't have experience with them.

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