Supporting Members don't see this Ad. Click here to become a supporting member.

Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Weber 32/36 DFEV Electric Choke Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts / New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,038

    Default Weber 32/36 DFEV Electric Choke Question

    Hi Guys,

    I picked up a new ride. Not much of a trail queen but definitely a fun roadster. Anyway...looking for help with my Weber 32/36 DFEV. The electric choke seems to be functioning improperly or not at all.

    I think I narrowed it down to some strange behavior of the diaphragm rod (I think) but I'm not sure how it's supposed to work, so it's hard for me to understand what is (or is not) happening.

    I know one thing...it shouldn't be working this way. See video and please offer any suggestions.

    Thanks!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_4rGx59zTU

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Steve
    2010 Jeep JKU - Body Armor Front Skid/Rancho D30 Diff Slider/Tailgate Hi-Lift Mount/Smittybilt Rock Steps/Lou's Exhaust/AEV D44 Slider/AEV 2.5" DualSport Coil Lift/KC Trail Lights/Treadwright Guarddog 32's/Rancho Oil Pan Armor/JKS Quicker Discos/F&R LCA skids/Pavement Ends Frt Bumper/Superwinch 8500/Teraflex 1/2" Front Spacers/Oylmpic Rear Bumper/Clutch Bypass Mod/XRC Side Flares/Yukon 4.11 Gears/Centerforce I/National TOB/Sunrider for Hardtop

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Fitchburg, MA
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    Cool find, I'm a fan!

    I have the same carb on the Jeep and you're correct; the choke should not operate that way. A tap on the throttle when cold should close the choke butterflies and set the high idle. The electrical connection warms up the bi-metal in the choke housing to open the butterflies after starting the engine, so as soon as the key is turned on it will begin to open the choke. Warm or cold the butterflies on mine have never felt "locked" in place.

    I hope this helps. Carbureted engines are an adventure for a generation that has grown up with fuel injected, electronically controlled, everything. You should see the looks I get from the younger guys here when I bring out the tachometer and timing light! "You tune this with a screwdriver and wrench?"
    Mary Anne: 1988 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36 DGEV, AX15/231, 4.11 HP-D30 & non c-clip D35 w/Truetrac, 33" KO2's, BDS 2" lift, a bunch of skid plates, Warn 9.5ti

    Boomer: 1997 Ram 2500 4X4, Cummins 12V, 47RE, work in progress...

    The Ancient and Honorable Society of the Leaf Spring
    Tread Lightly!
    KC1EIJ WQZJ411

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts / New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    Thanks for confirming my suspicion. Now I just wish I knew how it was supposed to work internally so I can figure out what parts are messed up.

    Iím not sure if the electricity only heats the coil or if it also does something to actuate the plunger spring that pushes the diaphragm rod forward allowing the butterflies to open. It definitely looks like the butterflies can be locked closed by the diaphragm rod when warm and that may be intentional I just donít know how it works.

    I think I will attempt to remove it from the vehicle and disassemble it on the bench to try and understand how it is supposed to work. I would like to figure out if the whole thing is shot or something is assembled incorrectly.

    When I straighten out the diaphragm rod that allows the butterflies to open and MANUALLY set the choke by moving the linkage so the high idle screw rests on the cam it works perfectly fine with the high idle as it should. I just cannot get it to set with a full cycle of the throttle.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Steve
    2010 Jeep JKU - Body Armor Front Skid/Rancho D30 Diff Slider/Tailgate Hi-Lift Mount/Smittybilt Rock Steps/Lou's Exhaust/AEV D44 Slider/AEV 2.5" DualSport Coil Lift/KC Trail Lights/Treadwright Guarddog 32's/Rancho Oil Pan Armor/JKS Quicker Discos/F&R LCA skids/Pavement Ends Frt Bumper/Superwinch 8500/Teraflex 1/2" Front Spacers/Oylmpic Rear Bumper/Clutch Bypass Mod/XRC Side Flares/Yukon 4.11 Gears/Centerforce I/National TOB/Sunrider for Hardtop

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Barrington, NH
    Posts
    1,693

    Default

    Normally you need more than a tap on the gas pedal to engage the fast idle. Normally you need to floor it, to engage a cam linkage on the carb. Tapping the pedal will disengage fast idle. The choke will completely disengage the fast idle once it opens so it cannot be rengaged until after it contracts again (in addition to actuating the intake butterfly).
    ScerbFab LLC
    Offroad & Performance - Barrington, NH
    Aftermarket Parts and Accessories

    (603) 309-2030
    www.scerbfab.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Massachusetts / New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    I ended up gutting superfluous parts from the diaphragm mechanism locking butterflies open. Now seems to work aces.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Steve
    2010 Jeep JKU - Body Armor Front Skid/Rancho D30 Diff Slider/Tailgate Hi-Lift Mount/Smittybilt Rock Steps/Lou's Exhaust/AEV D44 Slider/AEV 2.5" DualSport Coil Lift/KC Trail Lights/Treadwright Guarddog 32's/Rancho Oil Pan Armor/JKS Quicker Discos/F&R LCA skids/Pavement Ends Frt Bumper/Superwinch 8500/Teraflex 1/2" Front Spacers/Oylmpic Rear Bumper/Clutch Bypass Mod/XRC Side Flares/Yukon 4.11 Gears/Centerforce I/National TOB/Sunrider for Hardtop

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •