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Thread: Cleaning gasket surfaces

  1. #1
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    Default Cleaning gasket surfaces

    How am I doing? Am I good or keep goin?

    Method: scotchbrite pad and wd-40 (and elbow grease). Don't wanna buy a die grinder if I dont have to.


    Attached Images Attached Images
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

  2. #2
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    not bad, passable, but if you don't want to pull heads again in 20k, I'd make them shine. You have GOOD quality head gaskets? While you can cheap out on exhaust manifold, intake manifold, oil pan gaskets, you don't want to cheap out on head gaskets.

    you can get Roloc disks/pads to polish/clean mating surfaces. No need for a die grinder. Rolocs chuck up in your average drill/driver.

    You can get them at Autozone or similar. don't need to get the 3M brand, abrasive disks are a godsend. If you ask the parts guy for Roloc and he knows exactly what you're on about, ask him what grit/type to get for cleaning head surfaces. if he looks at you like... 'what yr is your car...? ' then just walk

    when you run your fingertips or fingernail across teh discolored area do you feel Anything?
    -TYLER - - Illegitimi non carborundum - -
    '14 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 V6 Auto
    -----3" lift with Nisstec MK84 coilovers & OME leafs, HeftyFab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, WARN Winch & HeftyFab bumper, 32" Duratracs
    '15 Nissan Xterra Pro4X
    -----Heftyfab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, 32" Duratracs

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtyler11 View Post
    not bad, passable, but if you don't want to pull heads again in 20k, I'd make them shine. You have GOOD quality head gaskets? While you can cheap out on exhaust manifold, intake manifold, oil pan gaskets, you don't want to cheap out on head gaskets.

    you can get Roloc disks/pads to polish/clean mating surfaces. No need for a die grinder. Rolocs chuck up in your average drill/driver.

    You can get them at Autozone or similar. don't need to get the 3M brand, abrasive disks are a godsend. If you ask the parts guy for Roloc and he knows exactly what you're on about, ask him what grit/type to get for cleaning head surfaces. if he looks at you like... 'what yr is your car...? ' then just walk

    when you run your fingertips or fingernail across teh discolored area do you feel Anything?
    OK, convinced...roloc and a die grinder it is.
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecgreen View Post
    OK, convinced...roloc and a die grinder it is.
    I take it when you scraped with your fingernail the grey areas weren't as smooth as the shiny areas? and a drill works fine for them...

    OOHHHH now I see... you were just using us to justify your tool lust... then yes, you need a grinder. and a 30gal compressor. and a lift.
    Last edited by mtyler11; 06-30-2019 at 10:49 AM.
    -TYLER - - Illegitimi non carborundum - -
    '14 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 V6 Auto
    -----3" lift with Nisstec MK84 coilovers & OME leafs, HeftyFab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, WARN Winch & HeftyFab bumper, 32" Duratracs
    '15 Nissan Xterra Pro4X
    -----Heftyfab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, 32" Duratracs

  5. #5
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    Tool lust? Yes. Fingernail test? That too
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

  6. #6
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    Use a white roloc bristle-disk. They are designed for modern engines that have iron blocks and aluminum heads. The surface must be super smooth and perfectly clean, to let the head and gasket slide with thermal movement. Otherwise, the gasket will get torn and blow. You can start the cleaning process with a scotch pad on a drill, but the finished surface must be exquisite. Here is a link to my engine block in my chevy. Get your block as close to this as possible.

    https://scontent.fbed1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ea&oe=5D80390D
    1996 land Rover Discovery, 32" tires, 2" lift, running boards/Rock sliders, Blue LED dome lights and a custom cup holder. (project in progress)
    1982 Chevrolet K10 350 4V auto 4" lift 33 x 10.5 x 15 8 1/2 foot plow
    ASE L1 Master Tech, Engine Machinist, Collision Repair Specialist, Retired
    Tread Lightly, but not on me
    My youtube channel is https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkbGciVRakRuFtGNS1m8_Rg?view

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys, I will follow the process
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogbreath077 View Post
    Use a white roloc bristle-disk. They are designed for modern engines that have iron blocks and aluminum heads. The surface must be super smooth and perfectly clean, to let the head and gasket slide with thermal movement. Otherwise, the gasket will get torn and blow. You can start the cleaning process with a scotch pad on a drill, but the finished surface must be exquisite. Here is a link to my engine block in my chevy. Get your block as close to this as possible.

    https://scontent.fbed1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ea&oe=5D80390D
    That's a great point, I never thought about how important the gasket would be in dealing with the different thermal expansion rates. All my experience in building motors is iron block/head... specifically GM.


    Ohh, shiney...


    -TYLER - - Illegitimi non carborundum - -
    '14 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 V6 Auto
    -----3" lift with Nisstec MK84 coilovers & OME leafs, HeftyFab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, WARN Winch & HeftyFab bumper, 32" Duratracs
    '15 Nissan Xterra Pro4X
    -----Heftyfab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, 32" Duratracs

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogbreath077 View Post
    Use a white roloc bristle-disk. They are designed for modern engines that have iron blocks and aluminum heads. The surface must be super smooth and perfectly clean, to let the head and gasket slide with thermal movement. Otherwise, the gasket will get torn and blow. You can start the cleaning process with a scotch pad on a drill, but the finished surface must be exquisite. Here is a link to my engine block in my chevy. Get your block as close to this as possible.

    https://scontent.fbed1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...ea&oe=5D80390D
    R u talking about the scotchbrite 3m ones?

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...528/22988876-P
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

  10. #10
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    There is a ton of folks on the interwebs saying that you shouldn't use rolocs because they leave grit that can get in the block and eat bearings up. GM even released a warning against it some years back
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecgreen View Post
    There is a ton of folks on the interwebs saying that you shouldn't use rolocs because they leave grit that can get in the block and eat bearings up. GM even released a warning against it some years back
    I thought you were rebuilding the engine? or are you just redoing the heads?

    shove rags in all teh holes, run a shop vac while polishing teh surfaces.
    -TYLER - - Illegitimi non carborundum - -
    '14 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 V6 Auto
    -----3" lift with Nisstec MK84 coilovers & OME leafs, HeftyFab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, WARN Winch & HeftyFab bumper, 32" Duratracs
    '15 Nissan Xterra Pro4X
    -----Heftyfab skids & Whiteknuckle sliders, 32" Duratracs

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtyler11 View Post
    I thought you were rebuilding the engine? or are you just redoing the heads?

    shove rags in all teh holes, run a shop vac while polishing teh surfaces.
    Just redoing the heads on this one.
    "I hope you get hit by a goose, right in the sway bar!" -anon

    2015 Tacoma Access 4-banger (aka 'Scratchy') -> 255/85r16 ST Maxx, FJC wheels, 3" OME 887s/full dakar pack, CBI sliders and full skids, Pelfreybilt Hybrid bumper, ****tybilt 9.5 XRC winch, sway bar go by bye, ARB on-board air, many many zip-tie
    1989 Ford Bronco II (aka 'Babe the Blue Pig') -> 31x10.5r15 Cheap ATs, 1.5" lift (RC coils/shocks and WULF shackles), 2.9l hamster-power

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