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Thread: 98 tj gears

  1. #16
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    Motor, motor mounts, tranny, ECU, xfer case input shaft maybe. Honestly, not experienced at all, but I would think the best upgrade for power on a 4 banger jeep would be to goto the inline 6.
    4.0/AW4/NP231, AA SYE, Mutant RC/RE 4.5" lift, RC adjustable CAs, 33" Maxxis Bighorns, 8.8 rear/LSD/4.10s/disc brakes, Aussie locked D30 front, 297x alloy joint upgraded shafts, snorkel, wilderness rack. KB1RGV Operating on 2M.
    "On the plains of hesitation lie the blackened bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory lay down to rest, and in resting died."

  2. #17
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    yah im debating might just abuse this for a while and then sell it and buy a tj with a six probably 04-06 and the do that one all up
    98 TJ. 4 hella ligts,rough contry 4"x series lift and rock krawler x factor steering setup,33x12.5x15" bfg km's,mbrp exaust,8.8 waiting build.

  3. #18
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    The time and money you will waste to upgrade from a 4 cyl to a 6 cyl in the tj isnt worth it! I have a 98 just like yours 4cly 5 speed. To put in the 6 cyl you have to move the motor mounts get a different transmission, new computer, new wiring harness. Then you have to merg the two wiring harness to one. In the end its just not worth going from the 2.5l to the 4.0l.

    Now on that note the engine you have is the same engine as the 4.0L but it has 2 cyl less. The 2.5L has good torque, just sucks on the horsepower end. When you add weight to it, bigger tires, armor you will just not go as fast as a 4.0L. You can still wheel just like everyone else. As for the axles I would say to upgrade them when the ones you have blow up or you can find a great deal on them. The ford 8.8 is a great axle for a leaf spring set up but for coils its kind of expensive.
    My jeep don't leak....It marks its territory!!!
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  4. #19
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by soup31314 View Post
    The ford 8.8 is a great axle for a leaf spring set up but for coils its kind of expensive.
    Yes and no.. axle swaps will always be cheap and easy for leaf springs yes. But the 8.8 is still the best swap for a wrangler if your not going to 1 tons. Ya you need to spend the coin to set it up for coils but so what. If you got a D44 from a ruby that would be a bolt in it would cost you way more then the total 8.8 swap. And you would still not have an axle as strong as the 8.8. Now this is all good true. But only if you do your own work or you know a friend that works for cheap. Shops are the big killer on keeping things cheap. for just about any type of work like this..
    88 YJ 2"BDS SOA 2"body Dana 44,8.8,locked F/R with Moly shafts and 4.56s,Chevy 4.3 v6,700R4,NVG241OR Rock-trac,Full cage, and much more!

    NTC
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by soup31314 View Post
    The time and money you will waste to upgrade from a 4 cyl to a 6 cyl in the tj isnt worth it! I have a 98 just like yours 4cly 5 speed. To put in the 6 cyl you have to move the motor mounts get a different transmission, new computer, new wiring harness. Then you have to merg the two wiring harness to one. In the end its just not worth going from the 2.5l to the 4.0l.

    Now on that note the engine you have is the same engine as the 4.0L but it has 2 cyl less. The 2.5L has good torque, just sucks on the horsepower end. When you add weight to it, bigger tires, armor you will just not go as fast as a 4.0L. You can still wheel just like everyone else. As for the axles I would say to upgrade them when the ones you have blow up or you can find a great deal on them. The ford 8.8 is a great axle for a leaf spring set up but for coils its kind of expensive.
    I guess I stand corrected lol
    4.0/AW4/NP231, AA SYE, Mutant RC/RE 4.5" lift, RC adjustable CAs, 33" Maxxis Bighorns, 8.8 rear/LSD/4.10s/disc brakes, Aussie locked D30 front, 297x alloy joint upgraded shafts, snorkel, wilderness rack. KB1RGV Operating on 2M.
    "On the plains of hesitation lie the blackened bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory lay down to rest, and in resting died."

  7. #22
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    Helpful hints to save money:

    Like it was said, going from 4.10's to 4.56's isn't worth the money, even though the pinion is stronger then the 4.88's that I would consider a minimum for a 4cyl.

    Strip and don't add any unnecessary weight(free), especially wind dragging ones ;)

    Use aluminum rims only, it saves rotational weight(hp) :)

    Buy skinny AT's like 33x9.5 or 10.5's(less weight and wind drag) or a shorter tire ;)

    If you have to have a mud tire then get a light one(look for the weights on the spec pages of the manufactures).

    Get some sway bar disconnects so you won't need to lock that D35(if you have better articulation then your wheels stay on the ground and driving more). ;)

    If you need more traction then air down more(free). ;)

    If you still need/want more traction go to a Truetrac front LSD.

    Spend the money on a tummy-tuck/belly-up kit because stock Wrangler's have poor break-over angles so this will help enable you to go places like you had a 6" bigger tire ;)

    And just use low range all the time off road :)


    Like people say, most of the time you could get by with 31's on a Wrangler, so anything above that will give you more off-road ability, but at the price of on-road ability ;)
    Traction, articulation, and gearing make a good off-road rig. Just a big lift, wide mud tires, and a winch simply do not.
    ~Shawn(the correct spelling ;)

  8. #23
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    Ok, so this thread was started as a 98 TJ with a 4 cyl. Now applying knowledge from above, to my application, stock 04TJ DD with the straight 6 and stock 3.07 D30/35 :ack: When i go to install my 3.25" lift and 33's come spring, that ratio is gunna stink. Heavy tires, lame ratio = really bad crawl ratio and mpgs. (yeah, i know mpgs arn't really good and don't plan on getting awesome ones) Say i was to gear down to 4.10 or 4.56(ish). I don't plan on locking (for some time). Is this unthinkable? I couldn't even find a speedo gear to correct the speedometer for 3.07's and 33's. (didn't look long)
    2005 Wrangler Rubicon 6spd - 2.5" OME Springs, Bilstein 5100's - 31" General Grabber AT2's
    2010 Mazda3 s - DD

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ishter86 View Post
    Ok, so this thread was started as a 98 TJ with a 4 cyl. Now applying knowledge from above, to my application, stock 04TJ DD with the straight 6 and stock 3.07 D30/35 :ack: When i go to install my 3.25" lift and 33's come spring, that ratio is gunna stink. Heavy tires, lame ratio = really bad crawl ratio and mpgs. (yeah, i know mpgs arn't really good and don't plan on getting awesome ones) Say i was to gear down to 4.10 or 4.56(ish). I don't plan on locking (for some time). Is this unthinkable? I couldn't even find a speedo gear to correct the speedometer for 3.07's and 33's. (didn't look long)
    Is what thinkable? 3.07's with 33's? I did it for a while but went to 4.56's and wow, was that so much better on and off road.
    Traction, articulation, and gearing make a good off-road rig. Just a big lift, wide mud tires, and a winch simply do not.
    ~Shawn(the correct spelling ;)

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mach2nh View Post
    Yes and no.. axle swaps will always be cheap and easy for leaf springs yes. But the 8.8 is still the best swap for a wrangler if your not going to 1 tons. Ya you need to spend the coin to set it up for coils but so what. If you got a D44 from a ruby that would be a bolt in it would cost you way more then the total 8.8 swap. And you would still not have an axle as strong as the 8.8. Now this is all good true. But only if you do your own work or you know a friend that works for cheap. Shops are the big killer on keeping things cheap. for just about any type of work like this..
    You can get a Dana 44 rear from most 2000-newer Saharas and some "Sport" models. My 02 Sport has the 44. I dont understand why everyone seems to think its cheaper or stronger to put an 8.8 in? Ok, the 8.8 has 1 more spline axle shafts and a SLIGHTLY larger ring gear.

    So you find one of these 44's at a boneyard, I've seen em from $600 to $1500, and you bolt them in.

    Ok, so you find an 8.8 for $150- $300. Now you have to buy a bracket set, $250-$350 depending which one you buy. Then you have to pay someone the labor to cut off all the old brackets, measure, remeasure and weld on all the new ones. Theres considerable time and money spent on labor right there. By now you're about at the point where you could have bought a TJ 44 and bolted it in. But you have the 8.8 so you got DISC brakes, but your ebrake cables dont hook up, so now you gotta go find a set from a ZJ. Also, you gotta get the flange adapter for an 8.8 to bolt up the driveshaft. Oh yeah, and you still got c-clips holding the axles in.

    I can do all that labor myself and I'd still take the TJ44 over the 8.8 swap.

    If you get a TJ44 specifically from a Rubi, thats going to add significantly to the price, but of course, its got 4.10's and an air locker in it too. And no c-clips.

    I'm a Ford guy from waaay back but I've broken and replaced waaay too many c-clips to think that an 8.8 is a better choice for a moderate trail rig than a Dana 44 is STOCK FOR STOCK or cost effective swap.

    But to each their own.

    Thread hijack over. Sorry.
    My ride, 02 TJ. Yellow. LIft. Bigger than stock tires. Aftermarket bumper/tire carrier. CB. Flowmaster 44. Currie steering. A few other things. Nothing special. Needs a Hemi....

    Cant stand trying to support shops that "value my business" but cant be bothered to answer the phone or return a call.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck View Post
    You can get a Dana 44 rear from most 2000-newer Saharas and some "Sport" models. My 02 Sport has the 44. I dont understand why everyone seems to think its cheaper or stronger to put an 8.8 in? Ok, the 8.8 has 1 more spline axle shafts and a SLIGHTLY larger ring gear.

    So you find one of these 44's at a boneyard, I've seen em from $600 to $1500, and you bolt them in.

    Ok, so you find an 8.8 for $150- $300. Now you have to buy a bracket set, $250-$350 depending which one you buy. Then you have to pay someone the labor to cut off all the old brackets, measure, remeasure and weld on all the new ones. Theres considerable time and money spent on labor right there. By now you're about at the point where you could have bought a TJ 44 and bolted it in. But you have the 8.8 so you got DISC brakes, but your ebrake cables dont hook up, so now you gotta go find a set from a ZJ. Also, you gotta get the flange adapter for an 8.8 to bolt up the driveshaft. Oh yeah, and you still got c-clips holding the axles in.

    I can do all that labor myself and I'd still take the TJ44 over the 8.8 swap.

    If you get a TJ44 specifically from a Rubi, thats going to add significantly to the price, but of course, its got 4.10's and an air locker in it too. And no c-clips.

    I'm a Ford guy from waaay back but I've broken and replaced waaay too many c-clips to think that an 8.8 is a better choice for a moderate trail rig than a Dana 44 is STOCK FOR STOCK or cost effective swap.

    But to each their own.

    Thread hijack over. Sorry.
    Well said!!!

    D44 rears are uncommon to find on a stock Wrangler though, but they are on all LJ's and Rubicons ;)

    Didn't Daimler/Chrysler switch the Wrangler's rear brakes to disc starting in '03 as an option on the Sport and Sahara models?
    Traction, articulation, and gearing make a good off-road rig. Just a big lift, wide mud tires, and a winch simply do not.
    ~Shawn(the correct spelling ;)

  12. #27
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    98whttj,
    I have a 99 TJ 4cyl stock gears and 34X10.5's. I can do 65 at about 3100 rpm's on the highway ,and it does fine offroad. my D35 is LOCKED, and i haven't had any issues. As long as you don't drive like a complete ass your D35 should be fine, the more you get into wheeling and if/when you start wheeling more difficult trails you may want to think about upgrading your axles. For now you should be fine just remember that you drive a jeep and not a sports car. Hope this helps.

    -Dick
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    '99TJ- 5.2L/NV3500/231
    HD 44 4.56 locked/d30 4.56 open
    RC 2.5"/1.25" BL
    36x13.5 IROK's

    My build http://forums.exploringnh.com/showthread.php?t=8481

  13. #28
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    and gearing a d30/35 combo up to 4.10 or 4.56 would be how much?(ish) There is nothing wrong with my axles. (yet...) I prefer the break then upgrade approach. Easier to suck up the cost.
    2005 Wrangler Rubicon 6spd - 2.5" OME Springs, Bilstein 5100's - 31" General Grabber AT2's
    2010 Mazda3 s - DD

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ishter86 View Post
    and gearing a d30/35 combo up to 4.10 or 4.56 would be how much?(ish) There is nothing wrong with my axles. (yet...) I prefer the break then upgrade approach. Easier to suck up the cost.

    Theres some great 4x4 shops in New Hampshire that support this forum, maybe pm or call them to get an idea.
    My ride, 02 TJ. Yellow. LIft. Bigger than stock tires. Aftermarket bumper/tire carrier. CB. Flowmaster 44. Currie steering. A few other things. Nothing special. Needs a Hemi....

    Cant stand trying to support shops that "value my business" but cant be bothered to answer the phone or return a call.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buck View Post
    Theres some great 4x4 shops in New Hampshire that support this forum, maybe pm or call them to get an idea.
    :-D Done.
    2005 Wrangler Rubicon 6spd - 2.5" OME Springs, Bilstein 5100's - 31" General Grabber AT2's
    2010 Mazda3 s - DD

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