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Thread: Bed Lining Hinges

  1. #1
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    May 2018
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    Default Bed Lining Hinges

    The door hinges have started to rust on the tops and I was wondering if anyone has taken them off and bed lined them? I'm thinking I want to do that as well as get some Delrin door hinge liners from TMR Customs. It was a bear trying to get the rear doors off. This appeals more to me than greasing them. Any insight would be great!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by dun_right View Post
    The door hinges have started to rust on the tops and I was wondering if anyone has taken them off and bed lined them? I'm thinking I want to do that as well as get some Delrin door hinge liners from TMR Customs. It was a bear trying to get the rear doors off. This appeals more to me than greasing them. Any insight would be great!
    I use the TMR delrin hinge liners - they haven't seized up but they are a little squeaky.

    Where exactly are you seeing rust? On my 2013 the hinge bodies are cast aluminum (kind of 'iffy' quality at that as they are starting to corrode under the paint - see http://www.kentrolinc.com/blog/post/...ry-Hinges.aspx for one discussion about this). The pin is steel I believe, as I believe is the OEM liner that causes it to be difficult to pull the doors off. The bolts holding the hinge to the door itself and the door pillar are steel.
    -- Tundra (yes, really my name, not my truck!) - KC1DQY

    2013 Wrangler Unlimited Sport - not stock any more - Schoolbus Yellow (er, 'Dozer')
    1952 M38A1 'Old Swampy' - pending reassembly into mostly stock form

  3. #3
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    All the door hinges on my 2012 JKU began to bubble paint and I brought it to the attention of the service manager where I bought it and they took off all the old ones and put on a new set after painting them to match. It was right before my 5 year body warranty was to expire. They gave me a loaner to boot!
    2012 JKU Deep Cherry Red - 3.73's, LSD, Rock Krawler 2.5" Lift, TnT Skids, RR LCA Skids, PS HD Crossmember, JKS Steering Stabilizer Relo Bracket, Rock Hard Evap Relocation Kit, Rubicon Rails, Viair 450P OBA, LCA Hardware Upgrade, ARB EZ-Deflator, Warrior Hood Lifts, MetalCrafters Black SS Grill Mesh, Thule Roof Rack w/Hullavator Kayak Lift, ARB ARB705US 2-3/8" x 30' Recovery Strap, Cobra 75 CB, Superwinch TS 9500 Winch & Bumper, Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/70/R17, Spidertrax 1.5" Spacers

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ivoryring View Post
    I use the TMR delrin hinge liners - they haven't seized up but they are a little squeaky.

    Where exactly are you seeing rust? On my 2013 the hinge bodies are cast aluminum (kind of 'iffy' quality at that as they are starting to corrode under the paint - see http://www.kentrolinc.com/blog/post/...ry-Hinges.aspx for one discussion about this). The pin is steel I believe, as I believe is the OEM liner that causes it to be difficult to pull the doors off. The bolts holding the hinge to the door itself and the door pillar are steel.
    Squeaky eh? Do you think some lithium grease would cut down on that? I donít really know if Delrin is very porous. Being a machinist who works with it, youíd think id know lol. Itís starting to show orange at the top of the Jeep side hinge. Iím not sure if itís the bushing inside thatís rusting or on the pin from the door? I donít see any bubbling or anything like that. I just want to nip it in the bud before it gets any worse. And so I have an excuse to bedline something lol

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphTomaccio View Post
    All the door hinges on my 2012 JKU began to bubble paint and I brought it to the attention of the service manager where I bought it and they took off all the old ones and put on a new set after painting them to match. It was right before my 5 year body warranty was to expire. They gave me a loaner to boot!
    I donít think theyíre starting to bubble, just showing some discoloration from rust Iím guessing. Thatís actually really awesome they did that for you!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dun_right View Post
    Squeaky eh? Do you think some lithium grease would cut down on that? I donít really know if Delrin is very porous. Being a machinist who works with it, youíd think id know lol. Itís starting to show orange at the top of the Jeep side hinge. Iím not sure if itís the bushing inside thatís rusting or on the pin from the door? I donít see any bubbling or anything like that. I just want to nip it in the bud before it gets any worse. And so I have an excuse to bedline something lol
    I leave the nut on the bottom off completely - that way there is no trap inside the hinge to hold water to rust the pin. The OEM setup is 'body side cast aluminum hinge, inside that is a steel sleeve (I'm not sure I can really bring myself to call it a bushing), inside that is a black plastic layer, then the steel pin from the door-side hinge slides into that black plastic layer. In mine, the black plastic layer was gone pretty quickly, allowing steel on steel unlubricated contact (on one side - since there is a gap left by the black plastic being gone, which generally I filled with silglyde until I switched to the Delrin inserts. With the Delrin, everything I've been told is to NOT lubricate it with any grease - so I've tried a bit of graphite powder, but I'm pretty sure that just fell out quickly.

    If you take the door off, you can easily clean and inspect all sides of the pin for evidence of rusting - it's a bit harder to really inspect the steel sleeve - but it seems to me (conjecture time) that if it's not the pin, it's likely the sleeve.
    -- Tundra (yes, really my name, not my truck!) - KC1DQY

    2013 Wrangler Unlimited Sport - not stock any more - Schoolbus Yellow (er, 'Dozer')
    1952 M38A1 'Old Swampy' - pending reassembly into mostly stock form

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ivoryring View Post
    I leave the nut on the bottom off completely - that way there is no trap inside the hinge to hold water to rust the pin. The OEM setup is 'body side cast aluminum hinge, inside that is a steel sleeve (I'm not sure I can really bring myself to call it a bushing), inside that is a black plastic layer, then the steel pin from the door-side hinge slides into that black plastic layer. In mine, the black plastic layer was gone pretty quickly, allowing steel on steel unlubricated contact (on one side - since there is a gap left by the black plastic being gone, which generally I filled with silglyde until I switched to the Delrin inserts. With the Delrin, everything I've been told is to NOT lubricate it with any grease - so I've tried a bit of graphite powder, but I'm pretty sure that just fell out quickly.

    If you take the door off, you can easily clean and inspect all sides of the pin for evidence of rusting - it's a bit harder to really inspect the steel sleeve - but it seems to me (conjecture time) that if it's not the pin, it's likely the sleeve.
    Iím definitely going to clean up the rust on the pins. The plastic layer on the top where the pin sits in the hinge that youíre talking about, mine is pretty much gone too. So the delrin inserts make the most sense. And theyíre fine without the nuts on the bottoms?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dun_right View Post
    Iím definitely going to clean up the rust on the pins. The plastic layer on the top where the pin sits in the hinge that youíre talking about, mine is pretty much gone too. So the delrin inserts make the most sense. And theyíre fine without the nuts on the bottoms?
    Take a look at the door - how it is captive even with the nuts removed. It seems to me that the nuts come into play in two situations:

    1.) door is open while rolling/rolled over (the door could lift out of the hinge and become jammed - but personally by the time I'm in a rollover, it's a bad day.)
    2.) someone has opened the door with the intent of stealing the door itself and can't figure out how to get the nut off the bottom and isn't willing or able to unbolt the other visible torx bolts. This seems a pretty unlikely situation.

    I'm not telling you to leave the nuts off - just telling you that I leave the nuts off because I don't see sufficient benefit to putting them back on.
    Last edited by Ivoryring; 06-13-2018 at 09:27 PM.
    -- Tundra (yes, really my name, not my truck!) - KC1DQY

    2013 Wrangler Unlimited Sport - not stock any more - Schoolbus Yellow (er, 'Dozer')
    1952 M38A1 'Old Swampy' - pending reassembly into mostly stock form

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ivoryring View Post
    Take a look at the door - how it is captive even with the nuts removed. It seems to me that the nuts come into play in two situations:

    1.) door is open while rolling/rolled over (the door could lift out of the hinge and become jammed - but personally by the time I'm in a rollover, it's a bad day.)
    2.) someone has opened the door with the intent of stealing the door itself and can't figure out how to get the nut off the bottom and isn't willing or able to unbolt the other visible torx bolts. This seems a pretty unlikely situation.

    I'm not telling you to leave the nuts off - just telling you that I leave the nuts off because I don't see sufficient benefit to putting them back on.
    Got it. Valid points. Weíll see how I feel about it after cleaning everything up. Thanks!

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